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Occasionally, certain things come along that are so special they cause us to ignore our recession-induced budgets and give in to a little splurge.  It may cost more than what you’d spend normally, but it really is worth it. Because while keeping an eye on the bottom line is important, so is treating yourself.  Without that, life can get very boring.

WINE: BEAUMONT DES CRAYERES, FLEUR NOIRE, 2002

I believe that most—if not all—Champagnes are inherently special. They possess that extra something that can turn any day into a holiday. And while nothing sounds more festive than the popping of a cork, it’s the story and process behind the bubbles that make these wines so exceptional—especially this one.

(Disclaimer: while the ins and outs of Champagne history could (and should) be explained much more thoroughly, for the sake of pithiness, I’ll stick to the basics.)

Beaumont des Crayeres began producing Champagne in 1955 as a cooperative effort of numerous small-scale grape growers in the region. Its base is roughly 200 acres of vineyards planted just outside Epernay, the epicenter for many top-level producers. As opposed to larger Champagne houses like Veuve-Clicquot or Moet-Chandon, who purchase the majority of their grapes from multiple independent growers and do the bottling themselves, the cooperatve Beaumont des Crayeres does it all—from tending the vines to adding the sparkle.

Most Champagnes are made of a varying mixture of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes—each providing its own special characteristic. In addition to blending different grapes from different sources, most Champagne producers also blend grapes from different years together—thus ensuring their trademark style in every bottle. However, in the case of the Fleur Noire, only Pinot Noir grapes from the first pressing are used—and only those grown in the fantastic 2002 vintage.

Rather than being a hodge-podge of varying types, levels and years of grapes, the Fleur Noire is a showcase of only carefully selected, very specific, and very high quality grapes. The result of which is a wonderfully flavored, perfectly textured, gorgeous wine. 

Going beyond the classic nutty and biscuit flavors of most Champagnes, this one expresses a unique level of fruitiness—most notably of plum, raspberry, and apricot. The feeling of which is incredibly refreshing and lively. With an excellent amount of acidity, it would make a charming accompaniment to almost any dish—from tarte tatin to sushi to fried chicken.

A perfect example of the importance of detail, the Fleur Noire reminds me of another recent aquisition that hails the beauty of good construction: this dress by Cynthia Rowley (purchased at Ann Mashburn).

From across the room, what appears to be a regular cocktail dress is actually made of pieced-together, hand-dyed strips of grosgrain ribbon. The technical skill behind such construction takes this dress to a whole new level of charm, elegance and distinction. A testimony to detail, a staircase above the others, and a little more expensive, like the bottle of Champagne, it was worth every penny!

Typically, once the 95+ weather of August arrives, the only alcohol I can even think about consuming is a gin and tonic. Despite being an avid wine drinker, even the coldest bottle in the fridge can seem heavy in heat as oppressive as this summer has shown. But thanks to lovely refresher from Portugal, a month-long break from drinking wine is no longer necessary.

WINE: QUINTAS DO MALGACO, TERRA ANTIGA, VINHO VERDE, PORTUGAL, 2008

Vinho Verde (literally, “green wine”) comes from Minho, a region in the northwest tip of Portugal. The translation refers to the young and vibrant style that is the hallmark of these wines. There is an abundance of varietals grown in Portugal and different Vinho Verdes consist of different combinations of these—all, however, sharing a uniform flavor and style. The Terra Antiga is made of Alvarinho (an equivalent to Spain’s Albarino) and Treixadura, one of the many indigenous grapes found in the region.

Very pale in color, this Vinho Verde exhibits flavors of lemon, lime, green apple and grapefruit. Despite having a little more body than many other Vinho Verdes, it still shows the classic ever-so-slight spritz that makes them so enjoyable this time of year. Low in alcohol, but with a sufficient amount of acidity, this wine works just as well as an afternoon thirst-quencher as it does an accompaniment to a light, summer meal (I had it with grilled shrimp, fresh yellow corn and a tomato/avocado salad).

Light and delicious, this wine will refresh like a good Gin and Tonic but without the strong alcoholic effect. It will cool you down and definitely help beat the heat. 

For me, that is the epitome of dreaminess. Slow, sultry, and timeless, that song breaks my heart a little every time I hear it. And this Sémillon might very well be the wine equivalent.

While a major component of most Bordeaux whites, Sémillon does not get the name recognition as the more common counterpart, Sauvignon Blanc does. A viscous, full-bodied varietal, Sémillon is also used as the key ingredient in the deliciously honeyed dessert wine, Sauternes. And though the heavenly effect of Sémillon on Sauternes deserves pages of praise, it’s the dry table wines that have won me over on a daily basis.

WINE: L’ECOLE 41, COLUMBIA VALLEY, SÉMILLON, 2008 



This example is produced by L’Ecole 41, a Washington winery best known for producing American wines that please our internal Francophiles. Located in the Walla Walla valley, L’Ecole 41 perfectly embodies the elegant complexity that has put Washington State on the wine map.

As full-bodied and luscious as a Chardonnay, but with a kick of acidity, this wine is creamy, indulgent and utterly smooth. Upon tasting, sweet notes of melon and fig radiate under a citrus canopy. And simmering below all of the fruit is something slightly sweet and spicy: vanilla, which undeniably adds to the overall dreamy quality.

A fantastic wine with food, this Sémillon would do remarkably well with a seafood pasta, as the body of the wine would stand up to the rich flavors and compliment the brininess of the meal.

Like Santo and Johnny’s Sleepwalk, L’Ecole 41’s Sémillon makes you want to close your eyes and relish the moment. Enjoy.

Whether a style of music, a stranger in passing, or a bottle of wine on the shelf, they can each fall victim to preconceived notions. Too often, we pass hasty judgments without fully understanding the subject and thoughtlessly throw dogmatic blankets over anything assumed to be similar. For a long time, that is how I acted towards Chardonnay. Having tasted just a few oppressively buttery examples years ago, I quickly decided that the garish grape was not for me.

What I have now realized is that there are many types of Chardonnay. There are the big, oaky bombs often associated with obligatory social events and there are the refined, delicious versions that are so complex and wonderful, that you consciously slow down to patiently enjoy every sip.

Enter France. Enter Burgundy. Enter Côte de Beaune.*

*(To put it simply: Burgundy is located in the eastern part of France, approx. 200 miles southeast of Paris. Côte de Beaune is an acclaimed wine-growing region within Burgundy.)

Unfortunately, unless you know where to look, most of the lavish wines described above come with an equally lavish price tag. However, that is not the case for this wonderful wine from Ladoix-Serrigny, a village in the northern part of the region.

WINE: ANTOINE LIGERET, LADOIX, 2008

The Antoine Ligeret Ladoix coaxes you into loving Chardonnay. Texture wise, it is as juicy and full-bodied as a classic Chardonnay should be, yet doesn’t feel heavy. Due to a core of acidity and minerality, it comes across as fresh, vibrant and well-defined. This Chardonnay possesses all of the lusciousness that is the pride of the grape and none of the gaudiness that has caused its bad reputation.

First impression revealed substantial amount of ripe fruit; especially, apple and plum. As the wine opened, softer notes of butter and toasted almonds appeared and rather than eclipsing the initial fruit flavors, they harmonized perfectly. Half a glass in, the consistency had become delightfully full and rich. And while those traits are what I first thought I despised about Chardonnay, I now see how great they can be. While the wine is mouth-filling in volume, the well-contained and cohesive flavors keep it from being over-the-top.

For people who have long-judged Chardonnay, you should absolutely try this wine. It will win you over and change your mind forever.

ABOVE: Morris Louis, Tet, 1958.

The profundity of Morris Louis’ work is most evident in its unique combination of movement, colors and emotion. Beneath the veil of a seemingly simple, abstract technique lie layers and layers of depth and expression. What appear to be unrelated marks casually bleeding into one another are rather intentionally placed to bind together and make one gorgeous image. None of the prominent elements—the movement, the colors, or the emotions—dominate. Instead, they harmonize. In Tet, every individual streak of every different color wash together into an entirely cohesive piece in which dissecting the parts is as difficult as it is irrelevant.

WINE: MAS MARTINET, MENUT, PRIORAT, 2006

An increasingly popular region for wine, Priorat lies in the Northeastern corner of Spain, bordering both the Basque and the French. The recent surge of attention is based on a largescale effort to produce wines that compete with those from the already popular regions in France and Italy. The ambition, combined with the natural resources of the land and the progressive techniques of many of the region’s newest winemakers create wines that not only rival, but often top the quality of their neighbors—at much lower prices.

The region itself boasts a hot, Mediterranean climate and wild, craggy terrain. When you pair that with the area’s preferred grape, the naturally zesty Garnacha (Grenache), the end result is a wine full of rustic personality.  What makes this Priorat even more interesting, though, is its use of 30% Merlot and 20% Syrah. Together, they impart a smoother texture, a more structured body and a bolder realm of fruits to the mix, creating an immensely layered and delicious wine. 

Mas Martinet’s Menut exhibits a similar sensation to Morris Louis’ painting. A wide range of flavors shows bold fruit (especially blackberry and plum), subtly sweet hints of coffee and espresso, and a deep muskiness reminiscent of damp tobacco. With so much going on at once, it’s surprising that the wine doesn’t end up awkward. Rather, the diverse mixture is incredibly balanced and smooth. The individual elements communicate seamlessly.

Like Tet, this Priorat delivers complexity in a fluid and seemingly effortless way. Beautiful, easy to drink, and incredibly well-made, the strength of the wine lies not in the individual parts but in the way they work together as a whole. 

WINE: BANDOL, DOMAINE TEMPIER, ROSE, 2009 

A perfect example of effortless French beauty, this rosé is the striped bateau of wine. It is beautiful in so many ways, starting with its insanely gorgeous color: a brilliant copper that literally twinkles in the glass. An easy wine that is pure and balanced but deep-down, very complex. (This is partly due to its primary ingredient, Mourvèdre—an earthy, gamey grape most commonly used in blends.) In this interpretation, it comes across with mouth-watering acidity and an unexpected balance of minerality and fruit—especially strawberry.  

Above: A still from Godard’s Á Bout de Souffle (Breathless). In my mind, this is the epitome of understated French style. Jean Seberg could wear that shirt everyday and no matter how ripe it may smell, it will never get old. I am forever envious of those that can pull this look off gracefully.

Grown in Provence, it’s no surprise that the Domaine Tempier rosé pairs extremely well with a SaladeNiçoise-inspired platter of grilled sardines, boiled potatoes, capers, olives, green beans, and heirloom tomatoes. That said, rosés in general are quite versatile, so this would converse nicely with any meal.

Like Jean wearing her bateau, this is the type of wine that you can drink day-in/ day-out from April first until September first. It’s a no-fail, elegant wine that hides its pretension under a well-developed layer of charm, while in the meantime pairing well with everything. Its unassuming nature will guarantee that your apparently blasé purchase will win over anyone sharing the bottle.

In the world of wine, I often get stuck in the Rhône and refuse to leave. I find the wines so satisfying that to branch out would only seem like a waste of time. But, in an attempt to broaden my horizons, I have taken a brief detour to the lovely Bandol. 

Bandol is located in Provence, a southwestern part of France. It sits directly below the Rhône and atop the Mediterranean Sea. Producing red, white and rosé wines, the region possesses a genuinely unique style. It is one of the very few places in the world that uses Mourvèdre as the dominant grape (at least 50% is required). While this grape is found in other wines, it is more often used to add heft (due to significant tannins) than to bestow the principal flavors.  

What I like most about Mourvèdre is the structure and weight it lends to a wine. Whether in a Bandol Rouge or a Bandol Rosé, it consistently provides well-proportioned body and strength. And, while many other grapes provide the same thing, they don’t act with the same composure.

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Like Nureyev or Secretariat, Mourvèdre conceals its internal force with a superb external grace. The power is there—reverberating under the surface, but what you notice and remember about the wine is the elegance.

WINE: BANDOL, DOMAINE TERREBRUNE, 2003* 

Once open, the aromas of this wine are persistent; exuding big red fruits, earth, game and leather. This bottle was enjoyed with an impromptu Coq au Vin and managed to not overwhelm the flavors of the chicken (something I was partly expecting). Typical for Bandol Rouges, it was big and brawny like an Argentinean malbec but still managed to keep a level of restraint; the weight of this wine was not aggressive, but understood.

For those that seek a full-bodied wine yet also value modesty, this is a great choice. *(It is important to note that the particular wine tasted had spent 7 years in the bottle, which tamed a lot of its initial tannins. If you are after the same mellow experience, look for a vintage at least 5 years old.) 

WINE: DOMAINE LA BASTIDE, ROUSSANNE, 2007

Something about this wine feels nostalgic, like it’s part of a pleasant memory that has just resurfaced. For me—having grown up in the South—it is reminiscent of the smell of honeysuckle that quietly reminds you each year that summer has begun. But, regardless of individual histories, anyone drinking this wine will share that sense of familiarity.

The best characteristics of the Rhone are showcased here. Made of Roussanne, a grape well known for its incorporation into red and white blends of both the Northern and Southern Rhone, the Domaine La Bastide displays the varietal in all of its delightful glory. A refreshing change from the wild and musky nature normally associated with the region, this Roussanne instead flaunts a more affable, floral character. 

Beautifully aromatic and layered, this wine begins with a fresh scent of lime and pear and ends with a sweet taste of apricot and flowers—particularly honeysuckle. Structurally, it shows minerality (in a very subtle taste of wet stone) and mouth-filling viscosity. All of these elements combine into a perfect wine for this time of year. Even the color—a bright, sunny yellow, suggests a languid summer day.

It pairs nicely with seafood, shellfish and poultry. While it would stand up perfectly well to lightly spiced dishes, it’s best to avoid anything too strongly flavored, so as not to overwhelm any of the wine’s subtle nuances.

Through all that this Roussanne evokes, it remains lovely, pretty and in every way, well-received.

Summer has arrived.

There seems to be a common assumption that the more complex a wine is, the higher its quality. And while that can be true in certain contexts, the value of a straightforward, simple wine should not be ignored. Life can be complicated enough; on those days when everything seems tangled in red tape and muddied with convolutions, the last thing you want your evening glass (or bottle) of wine to be is difficult. 

WINE: DOMAINE DE LA FRUITIERE, CUVEE PETIT M, MUSCADET DE SEVRE-ET-MAINE, 2008

Muscadet is located in the western side of France’s Loire Valley, directly bordering the Atlantic Ocean. The best-known and most important subregion is Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine, which lies at the mouth of the two rivers, Sevre and Maine. The combined influence of the rivers’ fresh-water minerals and the brininess of the sea creates a wine sheerly reflective of its aquatic surroundings. The pureness is supreme.

Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, the Domaine de la Fruitiere is overall a light, refreshing wine. Clean, slightly brackish, with an underlying note of citrus, this Muscadet also has excellent, food-friendly acidity. For pairings, look no further than the same ocean this wine insinuates. Oysters are the classic companions, as are most light dishes containing fresh seafood. The wine’s palate-cleansing demeanor also makes for a perfect aperitif.

Above: Winslow Homer’s Gallow’s Island, circa 1899-1901.

 There is an invigorating clarity to Homer’s painting. In the stillness of the sea and the bareness of the land, there is a sense of slowing down, reflecting, and starting fresh; a feeling that the day’s troubles can dissolve and simplicity can, in turn, arise.

This Muscadet emits the same feeling, with a purpose to cleanse the palate and start the taste buds anew. It is a sensory clean slate. Like Gallows Island, this wine whispers to take a moment and clear your mind. With every sip arrives a little more calm and a little more clarity. While it might not untangle all of life’s complexities, it may wash down a day’s worth of annoyances.